52nd City: Food & Drink

Better than noodle necklaces

I was at Schlafly's farmer's market last night, picking up a loaf of applesauce bread when a woman handed me a flyer advertising 'The Art of Food,' a sort of culinary gala, including platters stacked high with hors d'ouvres as well as a silent auction featuring food-themed art and gift baskets. My friend Bailey loves food art - things that look edible but are made out of like, fiberglass; she has paper mache hamburgers, a glass grape bunch paperweight, a toothbrush holder covered in decals that look like wedges of citrus fruit, a fake cake on display under a glass dome and a toothpick holder shaped like a giant cupcake.

The Art of Food will be held from 7 to 11 p.m. July 26 at the Mad Art Gallery (2727 S. 12th St.). Tickets cost $30 if purchased in advance and $35 at the door. For more information, visit www.ArtOfFood.org or www.madart.com.

The farmer takes a wife

With new Whole Foods Markets cropping up daily, buying "organic" and "free range" is all the rage. But in an article titled "Is Whole Foods Wholesome?," Slate magazine reporter Field Maloney urges that grocers like Whole Foods have profited from the widespread misperception that "organic" means "small family farmers." Indeed, a banner hanging in Whole Foods proclaims that "Buying Organic supports the small, family farmers that make up a large percentage of organic food producers." Still, Maloney contends that the bulk of organic food in this country comes from five or six farms in California - not from farmers in the immediate area. He writes, "There are a lot of small, family-run organic farms, but their share of the organic crop in this country, and of the produce sold at Whole Foods, is miniscule."

Oftentimes, it seems that slapping an "organically-grown" sticker on produce is just a clever ruse to charge more. Translated loosely, the word "organic" means "expensive." I've even heard people quip that Whole Foods is "the wholesome healthy for the wholesome wealthy." Shouldn't healthier eating options, fruits and vegetables grown without pesticides, be available to everyone - not just status enjoyers who can afford to buy organic?

Support area farmers by shopping for fresh produce at your local farmers' market. Workers don't usually want to pack up and haul home unsold produce, so if you stop by a few minutes before close, they might make you a deal.

For recipes and ideas on how to best use your produce, visit the Vegan Lunch Box.

Platters of splatter: Comparing notes with Ian Froeb

In late May (on the 21st to be exact), Riverfront Times food critic Ian Froeb announced, via his Gut Check blog, an end to his "Cheesesteak Quest," having found what he believed to be the most authentic Philidelphia cheesesteak in St. Louis. Froeb decided that, thanks in part to its "perfectly carmelized onions and nuclear-orange shade of Cheez Whiz," 9th Street Deli's "Just Like Philly" sandwich deserved the coveted title of St. Louis' champion cheesesteak. After finishing Froeb's review, I hopped in my car and steered its crooked hood ornament toward Shenandoah Avenue, where 9th Street Deli and its critically-acclaimed, grease-bomb cheesesteaks are located.

While Ian Froeb might have been on a quest, inspired by a reader's letter inquiring which St. Louis restaurant serves the best cheesesteak, my long-time cheesesteak binging is unsolicited. I've been gorging myself on cheesesteaks ever since my senior year of high school when my best friend Lacy and I visited Philidelphia and made a midnight stop at Pat's King of Steaks, the restaurant that invented the cheesesteak. We left converts, covered in Cheez Whiz and whispering that the slop from Pat's King of Steaks was even better than the records we'd scored at Zipperhead.

Like Froeb, I've sampled the Natural Fact's Philly cheesesteak as well as Penn Station's. They're good (my best culinary evaluation), but topped with a thick slab of cream cheese, gravy, pickles and onions, Mom's Deli's Beef and Philly is even better. More than once, I've convinced other customers waiting during the Mom's lunch-hour rush to abandon their orders of Charlie's or Dad's Specials and go for the gravy pleasure that is a Beef and Philly. I've also choked down Subway's Philly, and Froeb's description of Sonic's Philly - "resembled a dessimated turd" - applies here as well. Not exactly manna from Heaven. And the Philly Grill in Rock Hill, a restaurant that could've doubled as a police substation judging from the fleet of cop cars chronically idling in its parking lot, came and went before I ever got a chance to try one of its cheesesteaks. Passing out free sandwiches to law officials is just bad business strategy, I guess.

Anyway, my first attempt to go to 9th Street Deli was a flop. Not realizing the dipshittedly obvious: Shenandoah dead ends at the Missouri Botanical Garden, and 9th Street Deli is actually located on the other side of Shenandoah in Soulard, I drove dazedly up and down side streets before begrudgingly caving and heading to work. On the Friday of Memorial Day weekend, I persuaded my boyfriend that we should go to 9th Street Deli for lunch. But when we got there, a handwritten sign was posted in the window saying the store had closed early because of Memorial Day. Faced with my second aborted attempt to wolf down St. Louis' best Philly cheesesteak, I had what probably qualifies, for a 22-year-old, as a tantrum.

Toasted Rav discovers Local Harvest

Local Harvest Grocery continues a strong of local media play, with a video short on the Toastedrav.com site. Co-owner Maddie Earnest plays the role of Corporate Spokesperson in this one, and she gives an enthusiastic pitch for the store and its' products.

Believe that I can embed video now. How exciting. Here 'tis:

rBar: New Menu and Hours

Leigh-Anne Riebold, a principal at the Grove's rBar was kind enough to send along word of some new things happening at the spot. (Spam Sliders, you say?) We're happy to pass along that word here:

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The new menu features several of rBar’s most popular flatbread pizzas from its previous menu, in addition to a fun and interesting list of appetizers and side dishes and an extensive offering of ‘sliders.’ The appetizers include such items as mac-n-cheez, crab cakes, cheese and bacon mashed potatoes and pretzel ‘fondue’ with Schlafly cheddar mustard sauce. The slider menu offers the biggest and most unique selection of sliders in St. Louis (or possibly anywhere), including black angus mini-burgers, pulled pork, shredded chicken, brisket, hot dog and even SPAM sliders. The menu is perfectly designed to enjoy an individual meal or to share several dishes among friends.

The new menu can be sampled anytime rBar is open, which is now Wednesday – Saturday from 5pm-3am and Sunday from 9pm-3am. rBar is one of the few bars in St. Louis that offers late-night food, as the full menu is served from open to close. Along with an award-winning martini list, a new summer and Vitamin Water Cocktail list is available to accompany the food menu.

In addition to the new menu and hours, the rBar patio is now open and offering an outdoor bar and live entertainment every Friday and Saturday night.

The U = Food for SLU

Ah, Myspace, great giver of blessings.

Just today, that fine site supplied 52nd City with a new digital friend: The U. We suppose that The U will be best appreciated by those on the SLU campus, who forget their lunch or work well into the dinner hour.

Yes, that's our thought. Thanks, Myspace.

Welcome, Apollo

After a Lent without pizza, a joyous reconciliation was had at Mangia Italiano yesterday. The new, vegetarian "Apollo" is on the menu, after serving as a kitchen test case for a bit. It's got: a very thin crust, mozzarella cheese, honey artichoke hearts, cream cheese, red onion and spinach.

Trust me, fellow veggies: you need this pie in your life.

Water please.

So I've been going to this Thai place a couple times a month since early January and each time I go I love it more and more. It's constantly mentioned in the food issues of the RFT and Sauce Magazine, but that's because the King and I really does deserve it. The service is usually good -- the staff has their less-than-pleasant days, I don't really blame them though, restaurant work is frustrating, but I've never had a bad visit. It's usually fast service, too.

The important part! Food is good. Wonderfully spicy and good. The first few times I went I got something a little hot for my own good, but finished it anyway. I learned my lesson, after the third... or fifth visit...

I tend to order from the vegetarian menu because spicy noodles and vegetebles = love.

Parking on South Grand is frustrating and I hate it, which is the only thing I dread about going there. I dread parking in the city because each time I do I narrowly avoid getting a ticket. I dislike meters.

I like to edit things:
Side street parking was brought to my attention. I know it exists, and its very convenient when it's available. Thankfully though, it is when I'm not the one driving. My car is cursed, I tell ye.

Broadcasting From CoffeeHouseLand

Monday, March 16, 8:38 p.m.: St. Louis isn't a Monday night kind of town. The options are limited, severely. Even in CoffeeHouseLand, that's true. The Grind, closed. 6 North, closed. Bread Co., closing at 9. So, it's off to Kayak's, a bit of a haul for the South City-centric, but an open place to study and grade. Strangely, I'd never been to the joint, but the results are exactly what I'd imagined. The clientele a mix of Wash U. students and the occasional "character" blown in from the rainstorm outside. The weird, Canadian wilderness-inspired motif is just as odd on the inside as it looks from the outside, but the tea's warm and the ANTM barrista's got a certain, "Wash U. boys worship at my altar" sass. Might not be a regular stop, but it's good to have options, especially on these damned Monday nights.

Tuesday, March 17, 10:13 a.m.: The rain's still falling and Hartford Coffee's got that soggy day feel. Save for the one cat, who's got the need to shout out his coding directions from back at the office, which is enjoyed by everyone in the room, for sure! Thank goodness this isn't a personal call. Babies roll in with parents. The volume rises a touch, with Shouty McShoutington competing with youthful squeals. And what's that other, loud sound? Ah! The tiny Hartford stereo, playing Heart's hits from the 1980s. It's weird to remember every track. Every note of every track. ("Never! No, never! Never! Never run away!") Uh-oh, the Heart's off and a mix CD goes in. Some St. Etienne, nice. Some other, sorta anonymous disco-lite. Okay, it's a blah day, let's go with it. Suddenly, the volume jumps. HIGH. It's a remix/reversion of "It's Raining Men." Apt on a drizzly day? Dunno, oh, sure. Loud? Kinda, come to think of it. Funny, oh, yeah!

Wednesday, March 19, 11:30 a.m.: Quiet in Dogtown and at Cardeiras. A few customers in-and-out. (Hey, Andy Strickland!) Some nice stuff on the PA and a barrista who's starred in multiple horror films. Really. The quiet tip-tap of keys on a laptop. In fact, the first post from this blogger via laptop. Sweet. Just... hit... Save...

Fish Fry Blog

The title above is the title of an e-mail sent to me earlier today and if there's any phrase that is going to stop my non-Catholic eye, that's the one.

Check out the Fish Fry Blog today. Or, tomorrow, Friday. The more apt day, as even we non-Catholics know.

Tanner B's... Open... Sorta

The mysterious closing - and occasional re-opening - of Fox Park's beloved Tanner B's continues. And we'll continue posting until final resolution is achieved.

From Dan Brown:

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Tanner B's will open at 3:00 on Saturday March 15th, after the downtown St. Patrick's Day Parade.

Please check it out with the links below.

http://tannerbs. com/blog/ ?page_id= 3

At the Bluebird

Cold weather is cold, internet suffers. No blogs, no excuse. I apologize for lack of inactivity. (AT&T of STL, thanks for taking a week to fix my internet.)

The music scene in St. Louis is great if you like jazz, I've discovered. Not so great if you like local bands, it seems. Blueberry Hill seems to bring in a variety of musical acts, but I don't like the color blue and hills make it are hard to get my bicycle up...

There used to be a lot of hole-in-the-ground places to see local bands (consisting of those dern punks!!!) that practice in garages and annoy the neighbors. There’s a few here and there. (Don't get me wrong, ya'know, I guess I'm just too picky about my venues.) My taste in music is varied; my iTunes library will suffice as enough evidence. I have a lot (too much) of punk, indie and metal music, the type of music I will always love. The type of music that was the staple of those now-extinct music venues.

Recently, I was notified of the existence of an indie/pop/r&b band which has a Webster graduate in it. That graduate is in charge of booking for a fairly new music venue called The Bluebird. (I still don't like the color blue, but birds are a-okay.) The bands that play are sometimes famous, sometimes local. I can't wait to see a show there. I want to see Gentleman Auction House, the band consisting of a few former Webster students and an alumni, but I have a birthday party to attend that day. I’ll catch a live show later.

I've listened to all that I can on the Internet, and I can say that I will be supporting them in any way I can. My first contribution is to provide a sample mp3:
http://www.tellallyourfriendspr.com/media/music/gentlemanauctionhouse/1-the_book_of_matches.mp3

My next contribution is to probably buy their CD, wherever I can find it, whenever I can find it.

And here's the tl;dr version. (Translation: Too long; Didn't read.)

Check out the The Bluebird, 2706 Olive Street, for concerts of alternative music. 18+ venue and attached to Beffa's Restaurant.

Check out Gentleman Auction House if you want to support a band of local kids (young adults?).

Fair Shares: Print and Radio

In a bit of interesting timing, the Post-Dispatch reports today on the efforts of Fair Shares, a movement to bring more affordable, locally-grown food onto our tables. And tonight, the Topic A radio program will feature the very same topic, from 7:30 - 8:00 on KDHX, 88.1 fm.

Last Word on Tanner B's

Got word of a last-time-around event at Tanner B's this weekend. One of my favorite spots, but I'll be outta town, so if you go, please jot a line on what's up. Not sure how successful that Dan Brown will be in keeping people from asking questions, though:

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Due to overwhelming requests, Tanner B's will open this Friday and Saturday at 5:30pm for "Last Call". Food will not be served, but beer and booze will be.

No sniveling, crying, bitterness or questions will be permitted, just good times.

Tanner B's: I Am Bummed

Got this note from the Tower Grove e-mail list, confirming some scuttlebutt from STL Ala Mode:

Tanner B's has closed for the winter, when it will re-open is currently
not available. For those of you, thank you for your support. You can gather information from the website at www.tannerbs.com. Any inquiries can be made to info@tannerbs.com.

RIP: Bean'n'grain burger

After a visit to Tanner B's last evening - the second in three nights, I might add - I recognized this sadness: the bean'n'grain burger has been removed from the menu. This is apparently due to the crumbly nature of the burger. (Who complained about the crumblies? I'm COMING TO YOUR HOUSE!) I don't know what state of grieving I'm in, exactly, but I'm a far, far way from acceptance.

Welcome: Fair Shares

You can't go too long these days without seeing/hearing/reading about trends in natural, healthier and more local food. Brett Underwood sent along a note about a local efforts, Fair Shares, which is dedicated to just such a cause.

From their site, a pinch of text:

Would you like to support local, but don't have the means to do so easily? Do you have difficulty getting to farmers' markets? Are you interested in learning how to cook seasonally, thereby eating the best-tasting, most nutritious food available?

Fair Shares is a non-profit organization dedicated to getting fresh, local, seasonal food into the hands of more St. Louisans--regardless of their income.

Byron Loves Jell-O

Byron Kerman, a contributor to a recent web edition of the mag, was kind enough to send along word of his non-annotated list of Best Jell-O flavors for Playback. As it's the season for such taste treats, we'll pass along the link:

http://www.playbackstl.com/content/view/7028/301/

Yay!: Truc Lam

It took me, oh, about 15 years to walk into Truc Lam, the little Vietnamese place at the corner of Gravois and Spring. Man, that was some wasted time.

I'm now only mildly obsessed with the spot, which has a good selection of vegetarian fare and - based on my four, first visits - distinct lack of non-Vietnamese patronage. I dig that.

I don't dig the smoke, which can be heavy. Yesterday, four guys at the long, center table managed to light up about a dozen squares during the course of my meal. Not so enjoyable.

But the wood paneling? Delightful. The hot tea? It'll put pep in your step. The service? Just fine, especially if you speak Vietnamese.

I love Truc Lam: 3737 Gravois, 314-776-1299; open Thursday-Tuesday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m., closed Wednesday.

Food Network in Town

Signs are up around town and the conversationalists are musing. The Foot (er, make that Food) Network's in town for tapings at, at least, the Iron Barley and the South City Diner. Does anyone know the locations of other shoots? How about which show is being taped here? Will I be able to spot Rachael Ray?

Thread below, if in the know.

Pestalozzi Place: RIP

I was definitely part of the problem here, not the solution. Despite this restaurant being an eight-minute walk from my home, I never spent a dime at this lovingly-restored storefront restaurant. Alas.

So, a quick note, forwarded by a friend on P. Place:

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Regretfully we are closing Pestalozzi Place. We appreciate all the support you have provided us in the past 2 years. We have been delighted to have been able to serve you and have made many new friends. Both of us hope to see you in the future.

Sincerely,
David Lawrence & Stephen Graef

Kitchen K @ 4

Justifably, a lot of hullaballoo accompanied the arrival of Kitchen K on Washington Avenue four years back. The restaurant and bar was generallyl considered the first, new-build eatery in that end of Downtown, at least, the first to accompany the rush of commercial and residential construction near the Convention Center. Since then, of course, there's been no shortage of new spaces opening along that corridor, but Kitchen K, lead by the inimitable Pablo Weiss, hits the four-year mark next week.

To celebrate, the restaurant's bringing in hosts each night of the week, with 20% of the proceeds going to the favorite organization of each. A couple of gems orgs in this bunch, too: Monday, Steven Smith, St. Francis Cabrini Athletics; Tuesday, Pablo Weiss, KDHX; Wednesday, Steve Bosse, Brent Bosse Foundation; Thursday, Paul Ha, Contemporary Art Museum St. Lous; Friday, Mike McMillan and Tom Carnahn, Vashon Initiative; and Saturday, The Favazz, Habitat for Humanity.

Promised: Super-Yumminess

One of the principals of the new Local Harvest Grocery sends us word of the grand opening of the li'l store. Mind you, between now and then, you can stop buy and purchase anything you'd like, though the party atmosphere is going to be held off for just a bit.

Here's the word:

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On June 30th, we'll have our official Grand Opening of the store which is open to everyone. The event will feature samples of our super yummy and mostly healthy foods. (I say mostly healthy because you have to have ice cream and cookies... what would the world be without ice cream?)

Local Harvest Grocery is located at 3148 Morganford, two blocks south of Tower Grove Park, near the corner of Morganford and Juniata.

Hope to see you there. Check out our website for regular hours: www.localharvestgrocery.com.

North City Farmer's Market

I think I had the good intention of posting this press release a couple weeks back, but the old melon failed me. At any rare, the North City Farmer's Market is apparently now in operation, so pass along the word to any friends of yours in that neck of the woods.

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North City Farmer’s Market to Open June 2nd
St Louis, MO May 29, 2007

Beginning Saturday mornings in June, the North City Farmers’ Market will be open from 9 AM to 1 PM across from Crown Candy Kitchen on the 14th Street Pedestrian Mall, at the corner of St Louis Avenue and 14th Street. This market aims to serve the neighborhoods of Old North, St Louis Place and Hyde Park. This market accepts food stamps and vouchers distributed at local food pantries in addition to cash. We will host cooking classes with Hope Build, bicycle workshops through BikeWorks, and health screenings at the Grace Hill Mobile Health-To-Go Van throughout the summer.

The neighborhoods just north of downtown St Louis are lacking in access to fresh, healthy food. The North City Farmers’ Market, a project of Old North St Louis Restoration Corporation and New Roots Urban Farm with funding from the Missouri Foundation for Health, will increase the availability of produce to these neighbors, particularly those with little or no income. BikeWorks will be distributing 30 bikes equipped with racks through the summer to local residents to encourage carrying food without a car. Vegetables will come from New Roots Urban Farm, Soulard Market vendors, and donations from farmers in the bi-state area.

Join us Saturdays at St Louis Avenue and 14th Street for the North City Farmers’ Market to encourage health, nutrition and community for everyone in our city.

A Starry Night at Acero

Shared a late night dinner with friends at Acero in Maplewood on Saturday night. We arrived to a packed and noisy house and the hostess attempted to seat us in the back room, which was much to my delight, quieter. She was quickly rebuffed by a waiter. “Don’t seat ANYONE back here the rest of the night—they can’t sit here,” he warned. Ouch! Were my shoes not pointy enough? I was getting a bad feeling.

We were moved to the main dining area and after much discussion over the menu were ready to order. It was nearly 10pm—the hour that the kitchen normally closes. Our waiter assured us this would not be a problem on this night. “We have a big party of 20 coming in at 10:15. Tim Robbins is in town shooting a movie.”

Giggles all around by the girls. Bewilderment from my husband.

Our dinner was wonderful. I had the morel mushroom pasta special. The best pasta I’ve ever had a restaurant, no question. The waiter came and reached over me to replenish Lindsey’s water glass—right when Tim walked in. All I got to see where his sexy shoes walk by as I sneaked a peek underneath the waiter’s sleeve. The restaurant was nearly silent for a suspended 15 seconds or so. Then everything was buzzing with excitement again. By the time we left, nearly all the guests in the main dining room were gone but every single staff person was still in uniform ready to serve the star.

Acero should do well. I have heard complaints about the service. While our waiter did a good job and the owner took a minute to stop at our table, the waiter who got onto the hostess about seating us in the back room also came over and tried to correct the way our waiter was serving our polenta. That guy needs to take a hike. We enjoyed the evening and our pasta dishes were fabulous. It was a great experience all the way around.

I did notice on the way out that Elizabeth House next door was closing up shop. If anyone has news on this—I’d appreciate the skinny.

Zito's No More

Rumor has it that the former Zito’s (and current eyesore) at the corner of Columbia and Hampton may soon become Hillside Bistro and Market. The owners of Nick’s Pub have the financing and are looking into developing the location into a small restaurant that might also sell packaged wine and imported beer. They presented their plan to the Clifton Heights Neighborhood Association (CHNA) last night and it was met with overall optimism and enthusiasm—until Alderman Waterhouse informed residents of the moratorium on liquor licenses in the 24th ward. Apparently the moratorium was put in place in an effort to keep QuickTrip from moving into the space. So it seems things are somewhat up in the air and this point and we’ll all have to hang tight and write letters of support if we want to see it happen. Residents (including me) have been jonesing for a decent restaurant or coffee shop to go into that space. Other news of the area—Bartolino’s will be relocating to the new Drury Inn going in at Hampton and 44. Nice that a local restaurant is going in the space rather than a chain. No news yet on what will happen to Barolino’s old space.

New Roots

My Slow Food friends tell me that Riddle’s Penultimate Café will play host to a benefit dinner for New Roots Urban Farm on Thursday, May 3 at 6:00pm. New Roots Urban Farm is comprised of six city lots of garden space in the near north side of St. Louis city. The produce is sold by subscription or at the North City Farmer’s Market. Much of it is given away to local residents, to Karen House, a nearby shelter for homeless children and mothers, and to St. Liborius Food Bank, located next door to the farm in the basement of an otherwise vacant church.

The dinner will celebrate foods from local farms and proceeds will help fund New Roots Urban Farm community programs. A silent auction will begin at 6:30 with great items like rent-a-farmer for a day, private yoga sessions and personal chef for your favorite meal! Tickets $50 for single or $85 per couple and are on sale at Mokabe's Coffeehouse, Riddle's Penultimate Cafe and Left Bank Books or call Anna for more information at 664-8551 or e-mail newrootscsa@riseup.net.

For full menu and more information, please visit:
http://www.stlcamp.org/node/1674
http://www.newrootsurbanfarm.org/
http://www.stlconfluence.org/article.asp?articleID=272&page=1
http://www.thecommonspace.org/2005/09/source.php

Pizza

Listened to a conversation recently about the best pizza in town. I didn't chime in, though if I had I'd have offered this entry: Mangia Italiano. Specifically, the lunchtime's pizza, offered up for the buffet table by Bladimir Rodriguez, who makes the buffet's bread pudding, as well. Ooh, doctor. In a conversation about Mexican bread pudding, there's not even a conversation.

Thank you, Bladimir. My hero!

Lunch is only 15-hours away...

Party Town Report: River City Pub

Let's say it's a Saturday night and the usual haunts just don't hold that special appeal. For whatever reason, the places in the neighborhood aren't sounding right and the old favorites aren't calling your name. But you want a drink, maybe two. The only solution to this dilemma, if you're based in South City, is to head down Gravois, the tavern-ey-est street in this whole town.

After a relatively incident-free stop at Pepper's for a round, the sorta-south/sorta-west pull of Gravois came on strong, pulling my vehicle into the unfamiliar terrain of St. Louis County. In Affton, the River City Pub seemed to have a bit of action going on, with enough human traffic in the windows to suggest a stop. Good one!

For starters, it was karaoke night with DJ Ali, whose English was a delightful blend of New American meets Frat Boy. Loved it. Despite pushing his mid-40s, Ali was "rockin' the mic" with a panache and enthusiasm that could only fully be appreciated live, where you could appreciate his gym-sculpted body and leather, studded belt. His gusto was more than met by mid-set singer Steve-O, a ballcapped gent who's certainly known his 50th birthday, a fact that didn't stop him belting out "Superman" by Three Doors Down (maybe a predicatble cut), followed by a rousing version of "Gangster's Paradise" (um, undpredictable!), for which he also didn't need the lyric monitor. He was feeling it, whatever "it" might be, sharing it with the crowd. Dag.

Steve-O and Ali weren't the only characters in room, proven by a guy we'll call Frank, because that's how he introduced himself to us. Frank had previously engaged bartender Brian in a long conversation about both Billy Peek and David Surkamp, which was a real treat, though it didn't prepare us for the peppering set of questions to follow, highlighted by his "do you do heroin?" request that fell on disbelieving ears.

A self-appointed fan of beer, Frank noted that he'd spent the afternoon at the Tap Room, where he'd enjoyed beer from across the country. This seemed in line with Frank's emerging M.O. What sealed the deal, and cinched his role as Barfly of the Week, was a comment about Schlafly products. "They don't sell their beers in bars," he offered, dead seriously. "Well, not that many of them. You have to go there to drink them." Ooo-kay.

Sometimes, a short night is just right. And a short conversation is all you really need. In-out, wam-bam-see-you-in-another-six-months, River City Pub.

Simple vs. Simply Outstanding

I enjoyed that rare afternoon of complete and utter contentment yesterday, with a mix of live music, cool weather, record shopping and just the right amount of food consumption.

To recap: bookend performances by my favorite new band of the last five years, the Silversun Pickups, at Vintage Vinyl for a 5:30 acoustic set, then another 35-minute performance, full-on and electric at the Pageant at 8. With some time to kill between too-short-but-awesome sets, I headed to Meshuggah, to eat, get away from records I can't afford and, maybe, to get in some grading.

Perusing the menu, I noticed a sorta different option: a bagel topped with olive oil, pesto and gorgonzola cheese. It cost a buck, or two, extra than the usual toppings, but feeling rather buzzed by the Pickups, I threw down an extra bone on the special bagel. (Yeah, I roll like that.) The result was this: the single best food item I've ever had at a coffeehouse. And I'm, like, old and have been to many a coffeehouse over the past half-century.

Mind you, I already enjoy the kinda-European ambiance of Meshuggah, the weird ordering counter, the teas, etc. Even the self-possessed college kids on $2-K laptops. But that bagel: oh, perfection.

I'll stop now, as I'm having a moment, a flashback... how late is that place open tonight...?

KOKO

KOKO, the restaurant replacing Café Ivanhoe at 3257 Ivanhoe, stands for “Knock-Out” food, according to the server who helped us on our first visit. I’ve had the pleasure of dining in this cozy hot spot twice in the last month. Both times the service has been superb. I’m keeping my food review short and sweet. As my friend Hubert used to say, “Fried chicken so good it’ll make you slap your mamma.”

‘Nuff said.

Let Them Eat Cake

Several weeks back I was in the market for a special cake and the only place to find it was right smack in the middle of Cherokee, a neighborhood with which I was unfamiliar and a little intimidated. The cake is called “tres leches” or “three milks.” Never heard of it, never tasted it and I certainly didn’t understand what was so special about a cake looking just like something from the Schnucks bakery department.

A very nice woman guided me along. She explained to me that the cake was made with whole, evaporated and condensed milks and could be filled with any flavor (I chose strawberry) and iced and decorated in any color (I went with the all white and confetti sprinkles.) After balking slightly at the $40 ticket, I loaded up the sweet and muttered all the way home about the extra shopping trip to a strange neighborhood for an ordinary looking cake.

I am slightly embarrassed to report how phenomenal the Tres Leches cake tasted. How could I have known it would be sweet but not sugary? That the icing wouldn’t have a hard, lard-like mouth feel? That it would be moist beyond anything else I’ve ever eaten? Well, I couldn’t. But, now you do and you should order one. Plan to share it with no one.

El Chico Panaderia y Pasteliria
2634 Cherokee Street
(Cherokee and Texas)
314.664.2212

(Here’s a tip if you’ve never been in the place. There are all sorts of baked cookies, pastries and breads in open cases and wheeled racks. Don’t look for a little box of hygienic, pop-up food service tissues with which to grab your choices. Go to the counter and get a stainless platter and some tongs then serve yourself. They’ll tally your haul at the counter and bag it up for you.)

The Last, Good Tomato

So, like, I went to the Tower Grove Farmer's Market today, hoping to find some tomatos, since they seemed to have disappeared from that market in Souldrd a couple weeks ago. Turns out, them pesky red veggies (fruits?) were back at Soulard today, but by the time I hit 7th & Lafayette, I'd already bought some heirlooms (and "not so hot" salsa) from the Tower Grove Market and was happy to do so on such a gorgeous morning.

Next weekend's the swan song for the Market, with two days and expanded hours for each: Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sources say some quality magazines will be for sale, along with CDs, DVDs and other local ephemera.

Here're the details:

http://www.tgharvestfest.com/index.htm

Sunday: Happy 1st Anniversary to Copia

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Grove, Pt. 2: The Church Key

Whatever happened to the gathered materials of St. Aloysius Church?

Grove, Pt. 1: AMP

After enjoying a few stops in the City last night - total club count, er... too many - one particularly notable note was the news that AMP is moving across the street from its current location at Boyle and Manchester, to a catty-corner building being rehabbed by the Gills. Owners Neil Harris and Rusty Woody will again live above their bar, which should double in size with the springtime move.

What this will leave is a very usable, high visibility corner slot for a canny bar operator. Looking forward to seeing both the new AMP and the replacement tavern, as well.

As alluded in the headline, there's another bit of Grove news worth reporting, but I can't scoop myself, so check back on Monday, yo. Hint: it involves preservation, demolition, adaptive reuse and God.

Another Cherokee Opening

First the Black Bear and now Typo Cafe... pinch me. Two spots seems to be opening on Cherokee, 'least according to an e-mail from Tim Rakel of Bad Folk, who recently hosted an art show at the space, the one-time home of the Way Out Club:

"This Wednesday marks the opening of the Typo Cafe at the Tin Ceiling Theatre. Located at 3159 Cherokee (at Compton), where the Bad Folk Art show was held, Typo will be open Wednesdays through Saturdays, 7 am to 5 pm. Please stop by some time for some fair trade coffee or tea. Typo will also have used books for sale."

If anyone hits the wi-fi free, typewriter-aplenty coffeehouse this week, please report in.

Black Bear Bakery to Open on Saturday

Okay, it took a bit of time, but the Cherokee neighborhood's long-awaited new arrival, Black Bear Bakery, is set to open on Saturday, per a press-release sent via e-mail mere moments ago. While the entire post is eye-opening, the "dance party" component is particularly compelling.

-------------------------------------

Visit Black Bear Bakery's new exciting location in the historic Vandora Theater: Renovated with a historic theme and adapted to a modern vision. Experience our much larger new storefront with table seating and expanded store hours.

Beginning Saturday September 9th:
Hours: Wed.-Fri: 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
Saturday: 8:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.

Grand Opening!
September 16th

10am, 12pm, & 2pm: Green building and bakery history tour. View and understand how Black Bear Bakery renovated the historic theater using green building and ecological principles. Understand the history, baking process and ideas behind Black Bear Bakery.

4pm “Revolution & Diversity on Cherokee Street” a talk and discussion hosted by baker Mark. How do we get to a more just and fair world -- starting in our own neighborhood?

6-8pm Live jazz/blues/acoustic music performed by local artists

8-11pm Black Bear Dance Party

Black Bear Bakery
2639 Cherokee St.
St. Louis, MO 63118
314.771.2236

The Pitted Olive

I’ll spare you all the ordinary, predictable mumbo-jumbo of describing the food at The Pitted Olive. It was excellent all the way around. Lots of vegetarian options, several daily specials and of one appetizer, three entrees and three desserts, all were outstanding. Wine, ditto.

Visit their website to learn more about their gourmet take-out, wine room, catering, regular menu features and the history behind the place. They illustrate all those features much better than I could.

What isn’t mentioned and probably can’t be accurately conveyed is the amazing atmosphere created at The Pitted Olive. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so welcome and appreciated in a restaurant. It was like having dinner at a friend’s house-a friend who also happens to be a wonderful host and a creative, quality chef. A friend who doesn't continually insist that you have a good time, or quiz incessantly, "Are you having a good time?" Some people just make it happen as was the case at this unassuming, shopping strip restaurant.

How many restaurants will allow patrons, on a moderately busy night, as much time needed to peruse me the menu without subtle (or not) nudges? Questions weren't answered in thinly veiled irritation but with seeming appreciation for the opportunity to converse with the customer a little bit. When the wine glasses were empty, a bottle magically appeared and was poured gracefully but without fanfare. It was like our server was smiling and silently saying, "Here, I want you to enjoy this."

The long tables were shared by strangers and nobody seemed uncomfortable at all with the arrangement. In fact, there was significant conversation and movement between the tables with folks talking about their food, their travels and why Joe Bonwich hasn't made the scene, yet. One brave emissary from a group of British gents grabbed a chair and chatted up the female occupants of a neighboring surface about his plans to buy a Norton motorbike in Oregon, while a May-December couple, dressed for a more formal environment, whispered to each other in the corner.

There was no rushing but it wasn't slow. The staff was attentive without hovering. Nobody in the place seemed harried or stressed. Lights were low but not dark.

How, I ask you, does a stop for a light bite turn into a three hour dinner? Well, pretty easily at The Pitted Olive.

Slow Good

2005 Kick Ass Award Winners, Stephen & Sara Hale, are just two of many folks working on The Art of Food fundraiser, which happens Saturday, July 29th and is presented by Sauce Magazine, Mad Art Gallery, and Schlafly Beer. This event will include a silent auction with artwork by local artists and food stations with St. Louis's top chefs, who will create hors d'oeuvres from the products of local purveyors. The theme will be all things food, from music to video to fashion, and will draw St. Louis foodies and art fans alike. Admission is $10 ($5 for Slow Food Members) and proceeds benefit Slow Food St. Louis.

Last night, I dropped of my piece for the auction--I'm donating a fiber piece from the 2005 Potato Eaters show at the Contemporary Arts Collective of Las Vegas. I got a sneak peek at some of the other art and it looks like you are going to be able to bid on some really nice stuff. Don't miss the opportunity to get some food-inspired art and support a really wonderful cause at the same time. Many local artists are involved, and there will be lots of yum yums of which to partake, so I encourage you to check it out.

Slow Food, founded in 1986, is an international organization whose aim is to protect the pleasures of the table from the homogenization of modern fast food and life. Through a variety of initiatives, it promotes gastronomic culture, develops taste education, conserves agricultural biodiversity and protects traditional foods at risk of extinction.

The Cabin Inn's Future

Here's the latest on the Cabin Inn's condition, compliments of the ubiquitous "source close to the situation":

The Cabin Inn -- which now sports an expanded inside seating area, a rebuilt patio, an adjacent bathroom, and air conditioning -- has begun keeping the same closing hours as City Museum. And it will now open at noon. Abbie Grigaitis and her family (operators and heirs of the Pop's Blue Moon) will continue to run the Cabin.

Abbie herself plans to work through July, then take some time off to have her baby.

Bob has not decided decided anything about a post-Abbie Cabin. In past incarnations it has been a petting zoo, an ice cream parlor, a beer-and-wine bar, and (until this week) a full bar.

Smoking in the bar disappeared about six months ago when Abbie got pregnant. Hard liquor disappeared this week. Given the number of kids who hang out there and Abbie's "delicate condition", those are probably both good things. The smoke load was significant and the liquor hauling in a bar with no storage was tedious.

The reduced night hours and longer day hours mean that two semi-regular non-Abbie family members who worked nights -- Andy (ex-of Tangerine) and Michelle (ex-of Tap Room) -- are looking for new jobs.

"Throttle"

We were curious enough when a club called The Feisty Bulldog laid claim to a corner of cyberspace, as well as the old Spot venue in the Grove. Now we're even more perplexed by the arrival of Throttle, an affiliated room, it appears. The new Throttle will be opening later this month, featuring an appearance by Don Vito, the wacky uncle from MTV's overexposed "Viva La Bam."

We'll go, though we'd have been more excited by a celebrity hosting stint by Butch "Eddie Munster" Patrick.

World Cup Fever

There seems to be an article in today's Post-Dispatch about different places around town to catch the world's greatest sporting event, the World Cup. My new pals in AC Grassi have also sent along a link to a web resource that'll make traveling so much easier, at least for those who keep futbol in mind when bags are packed:

http://www.soccerbars.com/modules/soccerbars/

Included are some STL venues, though far from enough.

It's nice when the world wide web is used for good, rather than ill.

Natural Expansion

Sweet potato chips. What's better? And where can I get them?

For years, the Natural Fact Deli on Big Bend has been my source for these particular gems as well as a huge menu of vegetarian, healthy and hand made options.

Imagine the disappointment and surprise as I rolled up for a grip of SPC's today and found patio tables blocking the entrance. A huge sign announced the restaurant's imminent move to a new "bigger and better" location in downtown Webster Groves at 20 Allen. (Around the corner from CJ Muggs.)

Owner Kevin Loida promises the same award-winning menu, a planned beer and wine license, later hours and live music. After final inspecions wrap up this week, he hopes to have the new digs open next Friday.

To avoid any possible sweet potato chip let down, I'd give a call first to make certain A) they're open and B) some crazy lady didn't buy them all in some sort of agitated fit.

Natural Fact Deli
314.961.2442

Beer & Soccer

Oh, the combination! Glorious! Here's a little blip just sent to me, on an event of particular interest to, well, me!

GET READY FOR THE WORLD CUP
Tuesday, May 23 at The Tap Room

Andrei Markovits, who will be World Cup Professor at the University of Dortmund during the 2006 World Cup Tournament in Germany, speaks on "Sports Cultures in Europe and the United States." 6:00 p.m. Free admission.

Grove Bars: Incoming

Some changes in the Grove are upcoming.

R Bar, owned by a consortium of former Saint Louis University athletics types, is set to open in the old Grandma's space, near the northern/western end of Manchester, at 4054 Choteau. You can follow progress at this joint at www.rbarstl.com. Looks like it'll draw on a SLU clientele, which might be a smart move.

Also, there's word that The Feisty Bulldog - yes, The Feisty Bulldog! - will be taking over the space next to the Atomic Cowboy, formerly operated as the short-lived Spot. The website's minimal-to-non-existent, but the logo is too much!

Also, there'll be a Grove Fest this fall. We'll post details as we know them. Expect a variety of live music and such.

Brains: Priced to Move @ $5.95

A regular reader, who happens to be a mover-and-shaker in our favorite 'burb of Maplewood, drops a line to let us know of the arrival of Schottzie's along the Manchester business strip:

Yet another opening in Maplewood! Schottzie's, at 7372 Manchester, is having a grand opening on April 21st and 22nd.

The opening will start with a special ribbon cutting with Mayor Langston at 3:45 p.m. and head directly to the happy hour with drink specials. The opening will feature the Bud-Lite Girls from 4 to 6 p.m. on Friday; on Saturday night there will be live music. There will be a special price on 10 oz. drafts of domestic beers: 90 cents! Schottzie's has great pizza, appetizers, burgers and steaks and... for $5.95 you can have a brain sandwich!

Having been a vegetarian for nearly two decades, I cannot personally vouch for the quality of the brain sandwiches at this eatery, but the pizzas - at least at the South County location - are just outstanding.

Which leads one to wonder: will brain pizzas make the menu?

Anthonino's Taverna

The drag of working in the foodservice industry is that impressive food becomes a frustrating and elusive thing. I go to lots of trade shows and brokers and sales representatives are constantly parading new products in front of me. It’s a classic example of knowing too much when I dine out.

So it’s a rare day indeed when I eat something so fantastic, so spectacular, so superior to anything else I’ve tried around town that I feel compelled to endorse it to any willing audience. Ladies and gentlemen, that day has arrived.

There’s a cute little bar/restaurant over on Macklind where I hide out from time to time. Despite being on the Hill, the menu doesn’t play favorites and offers Greek, Italian, bar food and American hybrids. My usual order at Anthonino’s is roasted sweet red peppers with feta cheese and pita but I deviated from the plan on Friday when the chalkboard outside promoted the fish sandwich. I like a good piece of fish as much as the next girl and was thoroughly thrilled at the chance to use the Ladies’ Man voice when ordering.

The sandwich came with some weird vinegar-y slaw and a platter of greasy, limp fries but the headliner was something to behold. What arrived was a grouper fillet about ten inches in length and thicker than my wrist until it finally tapered down to the end. The batter wasn’t oily or salty but fluffy and light. To my surprise and delight, the coating wasn’t mushy on the inside and the fish itself was firm and flaky. Try as I might, I couldn’t make out even a hint of rubber texture as I chewed it-so uncommon in the common man’s sammich. The flavor was mild and almost sweet, while a soft French loaf performed transportation duties to my speechless gob. It was perfect.

I’m afraid to go back. It couldn’t possibly ever be that good again. But for you, here’s the info:

Anthonino’s Taverna on the Hill
2225 Macklind
314.773.4455

El Mundo Latino

What used to be JaBoni's is now El Mundo Latino and having heard mucho positive feedback on the place, I made the scene for lunch on Monday.

What worked? The Craig Downs murals on the wall and the overall dark atmosphere-perfect for drinking way too many anythings. The small (really small) pre-meal plantain chips. The tap water from a plain, clear bottle and the not-much-larger than a shot glass vessels provided for drinking that water. The music from absolutely enormous speakers. The food was adequate but unremarkable.

Our server, who shall remain nameless for this story, was really the most amazing thing about the whole outing. If I described her as apathetic, I’d be implying some sort of intent and I don’t think that was the case. Exhibit one:

Diner: Can you tell me what’s in the black bean soup?
Server: It has black beans in it.

Mind you, this was not delivered in a deadpan/I’m going for the funny factor manner. Her demeanor was a delightful blend of south side disinterest and abject boredom with just a hint of surliness. Exhibit dos:

Diner: What do you have that is vegetarian?
Server: Nothing.
Diner: Could you just leave the chicken off the burrito and put vegetables on it instead?
Server: Uh. Yeah.

Yes! It was just as absurd as it reads! With every phrase or question uttered from her slack mouth, the quizzical looks around the table intensified. In retrospect, it may have been a very shrewd marketing ploy as I started to consider drinking heavily well before the entrees arrived. Brilliant! Here’s one more for the road:

Server: Are you done with your plate?
Diner: Yes. I am done.
Server: Do you want a box?
Diner: No, thank you.
Server: Should I take your plate away?

This Weekend: Mercury

Got a chance to preview the space that will soon - as of Saturday - be Mercury, the newest bar concept by veteran Downtown entrepeneur Paul "Pablo" Weiss. The small venue is located at 1025 Spruce, in one of the Cupples Station buildings, and includes both indoor and outdoor spaces.

I'll have plenty of thoughts about the new bar in next Thursday's "Get Out," but if you want to clue yourself in well before then, the place will be open for business this Saturday night, April 1, opening 'round 6-ish. The room will then open for regular hours on Monday, April 3, at 4 p.m., closing at 1:30 every night but Sunday, when lights will be off.

Interesting idea down there at Mercury, very interesting.

The Curse of the Playboy Club

Over at 3914 Lindell, the old Playboy Club sits as a tempting target for club owners and developers. It's understandable. Arguably the first "superclub" in St. Louis, the multi-leveled, multi-roomed space served the Playboy corporate philosophy well during the 1970s, by many accounts, when the venue was the local outpost for would-be swingers and sophisticates.

In the late '90s, the building was run as Kearbey's, a sorta half-baked operation that tried to take advantage of the inherent coolness of the long-shuttered Playboy Club, including the hanging seating loft, a strange pit of couches hung between two seperate levels. This spot was only part of a series of neat, period pieces that dotted 3914 Lindell, including basement vaults, private party nooks and walls with inlaid photo slots, for pics of the working Bunnies. Though they flirted with some success there, Kearbey's ran its course, as clubs do, and the space was vacant again.

The City Grille and Brewhaus moved into the same venue recently, pushing a dance club, a restaurant and a brew pub. Despite some so-so reviews from friends and associates, I went to review the place for the P-D. More than once. On several trips, a handwritten sign greeted any visitors hopping up the wide front steps: "Sorry, closed until Monday." Last night, the sign was joined by a cartoonishly-large padlock-and-chain, which didn't exactly say "Welcome, be back in five minutes." Not assuming that they'll be gone for good, but... I'm not booking a return trip to City Grille soon.

While it might irritate some of the purer eyes reading this site, the suggestion here is that the Playboy Club was simply too (corporate) cool for our town, at the time, and too (retro) cool for succeeding businesses. It's hard for a modern operator to affect a winning vibe in a space so keyed in to its time. The Playboy Club is almost a museum, and as each new venture comes in, it chips aways at some of the inherent sharpness of the original locale; even a look through the windows last night showed a lot of different design elements jockeying for attention in just the classic lobby area.

Time for the building owner to sell the fixtures (which could fetch a pretty penny), hole the joint out and to seek a business looking for office space, or some other non-industry purpose.

The Playboy Club is casting a imposing shadow that few modern club operators can work under.

A Makeover for Sandrina's?

According to several moles in the nightlife industry, the longtime South City after-hours haunt Sandrina's will be going into a new phase soon. Though it's currently being bothered by the Arsenal Street bridge construction just outside its front door, Sandrina's is said to be under contract to a group including principals from the Famous Bar, Juniper Grill and even some East Side interets. Hey, hey!

Though the place has long retained that sorta "time forgotten" feel, it won't necessarily be a negative seeing this faded gem restored. At one point, the shuttered dining area hosted regular lunch and dinner crowds, with an in-house piano man. According to what's being whispered, the new club will, in fact, bring the kitchen back into operation and will also see a revamping of the classic bar space, itself.

Saturday's Liquid Lunch

Perhaps a shuttle could eventually be put into place for two bars along Arsenal Street, one just east of the magical Grand dividing line, the other just a few paces away on Kingshighway.

Down Kingshighway-way The Royale is serving a hangover brunch on Saturdays, with a Bloody Mary buffet and live DJ, from 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Yum.

Riley's, at Arkansas and Arsenal (you know, the place you thought was never going to open, but eventually it did), is offering a noon opening and nothing less than free turtle soup on Saturdays. Thus this blog's first chance to type and publish the phrase, "free turtle soup," which we'll use at least once more.

If you're in the neighborhood, bouyed by Bloody Marys and free turtle soup, you may as well pop into the new-look Mangia Italiano. The mysterious red wall has come down and - word has it - the second room will be open by the end of the weekend. My lungs applaud the new, smoke-free haunt.

Slow Food St. Louis

I read about the Slow Food movement years ago and was intrigued with the mission of the organization. Slow Food, founded in 1986, is an international organization whose aim is to protect the pleasures of the table from the homogenization of modern fast food and life. Through a variety of initiatives, it promotes gastronomic culture, develops taste education, conserves agricultural biodiversity and protects traditional foods at risk of extinction. However, I wasn’t inspired to join until last spring when I attended a Slow Wednesdays event at the Bottleworks. Stephen and Sara Hale, both long-time employees of The Saint Louis Brewery, talked about their October 2004 trip to Turin, Italy to attend Terre Madre, which was the first meeting of "world food communities”. Their passion and enthusiasm was infectious and shortly thereafter, I joined the organization officially.

I attended my first meeting this afternoon. About twenty of us met at Stephen and Sara’s home Soulard. The group shared a lot of diverse food and ideas for 2006. The local convivium discussed offering various tastings (I think they did a chocolate tasting last year…how did I miss that one?), educational projects and tours (meet the chef, meet the farmer, learn how it all works), social activities like Dinner and Movie (where the food offered has some tie in to the film) and a major fundraiser, The Art of Food, which will be held at Mad Art in July. Plus, Sara and Stephen will continue Slow Wednesdays at the Bottleworks, which offers an introduction to many of the topics on Slow Food agenda in a friendly low-key environment.

If you’ve read "Fast Food Nation," seen "Super Size Me," heard about the new school lunch program in the city schools, wondered how to make tamales, been curious about how to find which growers at the market are offering local produce, or just want to meet great people who want to preserve the sense of connection and community sharing food can bring—please consider joining us. Check out the Slow Food website or attend an upcoming meeting or event. You can also subscribe to the Slow Food St. Louis Yahoo Group by emailing Stephen Hale at slowfoodstl-subscribe@yahoogroups.com.

Party in the Ville

There are five things that I know to be true, at least in terms of the scene at Zack's this evening, Thursday, January 5.

1. The bar is located at 1904 Whittier, a truly St. Louis address if ever there was one.

2. DJ Play will be spinning music from 7-11 p.m. (You may know him by another name, but it's not for me to ruin mystery.)

3. The drinks will be strong like Ken Patera.

4. Several people will rue their life on the morning of Friday, January 6, thanks to the strength of the drinks.

5. Strange conversations about the vagaries of the world and our places in it will take place.

These things I know, though I still feel compelled to attend and confirm them. I'll be the guy with the cranberry juice and Bacardi Apple. I think that's what I drink there...

Chez Leon

St. Louis is lucky to have Chef Eric Brenner. Moxy is one of my favorite restaurants; consistent, casual, but always special. The servers know our tastes in wines and make recommendations always right on target. The scallops are truly divine, with fennel undertones that have given me an entirely new appreciation and respect for the odd little root. The short ribs are memorable enough that I crave them after a month or so of doing without. This weekend I had the pleasure of dining for the first time at Brenner’s French restaurant, Chez Leon. I went with friends to celebrate the holiday and in a word-WOW! A three-course price fixe dinner is $35 with just a few items on the menu increasing the price by $2-5. While not exorbitant, I will save Chez Leon for special occasions; more so for the ambience than the prices. We were all knocked out by our experience.

Potato and leek soup arrived with a wonderful balance of flavors and richness. The Lyonnaise salad was a hit with those brave enough to try salad with a poached egg delicately nestled on top. And Brenner sure knows his way around a scallop. Those at Chez Leon were just heavenly—larger and richer than their sisters at Moxy, but still with perfectly blended light sauce. It is hard to say who won the entrée contest. A friend who only orders steak when we dine out claimed the Chez Leon filet made the steak from her usual haunt taste like it came from Denny’s. The free-range chicken with truffle butter was spectacular. Hangar steak with béarnaise was completely decadent, but thoroughly enjoyed. And while one would assume a pork chop with sauerkraut to be sort of common peasant grub, it was anything but, with kraut that had caramelized, without becoming soggy.

I continued my St. Louis Crème Brulèe tour, not surprised that this was one of the best. I’m sort of a puritan about this dessert, and am disappointed when it comes with any hint of citrus or is too full of vanilla beans. It was just right. A chocolate cake with gooey center elicited oohs, ahhs and eye rolling. It was not at all like those giant concoctions that one finds at chain restaurants. It was amazingly sophisticated with a scoop of homemade pistachio ice cream. The sorbet arrived with three generous scoops—two blood orange and one pineapple. With so many rich dishes consumed throughout the evening, one spoonful of sorbet was the ideal finish.

The house red wine, at $32 a bottle, I think was a Côtes du Rhône. (I admit I’m horrible at remembering wines.) It was tasty too. The service was pleasant and not overbearing. The only bad thing was the frigid waddle back to our car.

Even better than the food, was of course, spending the evening with best friends. Dinner out in lieu of gifts is the only way to go during the holidays.

Thurman Goes Under the Knife

The Shaw neighborhood's Thurman Community Cafe will be receiving an early holiday makeover all next week, according to the info on the site www.communitycafes.blogspot.com. The humorously-written piece, penned by resident wit Shannon McGinn, suggests a new look, due for public inspection on the Saturday after Thanksgiving.

Neo-industrialist? Down-home kitsch? Goth chic? Hmm. We're intrigued by what's next.

And in other South City coffeeshop news, MoKaBe's is opening earlier, with a 7 a.m. weekday door unlock, 8 a.m. on Saturdays and 9 a.m. on Sundays. New breakfast menu items will be introduced, as well, if we're to beleive the promotonal tarp hanging on the outside of the building.

RIP/MIA: Happy Taco

In the past two days, the Riverfront Times and the Post-Dispatch have both highlighted the Lifestyles Cafe, located in that not-quite-Skinker-DeBalivere netherworld between the West End and the Loop. And in the each case, the new vegetarian/soul menu got qualified good marks.

Our question, though, is what became of the Happy Taco business sign? For the better part of the decade, the space sat vacant, but the friendly Happy Taco mascot (best described as a... happy.... mmm, taco) maintained a lit presence on Delmar. Remarkably, no foul child had ever thrown a rock, brick or other smashing device into the whimsical, an amazing enough thing.

But did the good folks at Lifestyles simply scrap the Taco sign? Or did some civic imp make off with it before it fell into the alley's bulk-pickup rotation? If there was a sign anywhere in the City that needed to be freed, this was it.

Here's hoping that's the case. Sometimes theft isn't only called for, it should be actively encouraged. We'll miss you, Happy Taco, unless you're... somewhere.

Belas Artes to Open on Saturday

In the McKinley Heights space formerly occupied by Marty's Baking, Belas Artes is planning an opening this Saturday, Nov. 5.

Here's some info from the cafe's site, compliments of proprietor Cileia Miranda-Yuen:

Belas Artes is a trendy café & multicultural center with an art gallery that promotes world and local art. It is a space to relax, meet international folks and learn about global cultures. Belas Artes Coffee Shop has four thematic rooms featuring different cultures: “Afro-Latin," “Middle-Eastern-Indian," “Zen” and “Western Contemporary." Our patio is also another pleasant space with tables among planters making you feel like being in the middle of a park.

The coffeehouse is found at 1854 Russell, at Mississippi. Hours will be 6:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m., weekdays; and 7:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., weekends.

Morsels & Sips, v. 1

Chef Landis Irvin has been spotted less frequently at Mangia Italiano recently, as he's taken on a management and ownership stake in The Delmar Lounge, orchestrating a menu changeover for the late-night hang. He'll still be overseeing the kitchen at Mangia, though running the day-to-day operations at his new perch in the Loop.

Eye-popping was a sight at MoKaBe's on Wednesday evening, as the coffeehouse had - gasp! - a television tuned into that night's Cardinals baseball game. The group in smoking section seemed predictably uninterested in the dreadfully dull proceedings. If there's only reason to be glad that the Cards are removed from playoff competition, it's that this kind of culturally-jarring scene won't be witnessed again soon.

Old friend Paul Stark, host of KDHX's "Ska's the Limit," has taken a management gig at the hot, new Maplewood club, Boogaloo. Don't be rude, say "hi" when you're by.

A little birdy suggests that the wonderful AMP, 4199 Manchester, will soon be looking at a 3 a.m. license. Meanwhile, down the block at the Atomic Cowboy, the carry-out window will soon open.

Ode to the Potato

While I was on vacation, both Thomas and Stefene contributed odes to the potato. I cannot pass on the opportunity to share my love of the dusty orb. I believe in the power of the potato. The potato is what brought me to Mad Art. The potato is what took me to Vegas. The potato brought me back into making art after a very long desolate hiatus. In a strange way, the potato is what saved me.

Allow me to explain. In 2001 my friend Rebecca Stees, who was living in Oakland, California, approached me about doing a group art show with some fellow artist friends from college. We had all gone to work after college, some of us in artistic, some not. We had tossed around the idea of shows in the past, but it was ten years since we left art school—it was time to act. I was in a serious rut at my job. So we embarked on the unknown and came upon the idea of doing a potato-themed show, modeled after a famed Potato Party Rebecca had thrown years ago. So we threw it together. We didn’t have a lot of rules about it. I started making art again. We had a helluva show at Mad Art in January 2002. I fell in love with the gallery. I made friends with Ron and Tracy. Eventually, I left my corporate job to help at the gallery and make more art. I was out of the rut and very happy.

In February of this year, Rebecca, Nina Ganci, and I traveled to Las Vegas to put on another potato show--Cult of the Potato. Again, we didn’t know what to expect, but it was a fabulous success. There is something magical about the humble spud that makes people smile, makes people feel warm and friendly. I stood on a busy Vegas street in front of a crowded gallery, dressed in my Potato Eaters chef’s jacket, and handed out potatoes to unsuspecting passersby. I snuck them into baby strollers, purses, and the hoods of visitor’s coats. To me, it was quality entertainment.

I love good food, good parties, good art, and good people. The potato brings all these favorite things together somehow. Peeling potatoes for soup or mashed potatoes is cathartic—it forces me to slow down and enjoy the moment. Cradling a dusty orb in my left hand and gliding the peeler across the surface towards me, I feel instantly comforted. Making things for other people, whether I’m making food or art, brings me a tremendous amount of joy. I hope to share a potato with you someday soon.

Blake Brokaw: My Grillin' Hero

You can't plan two entries in two days by two writers, both dealing with the modest potato. Unlike my friend Stefene's run-in with stellar soup, I just had the best steamed potato I've ever had, on the parking lot of the City Museum. And these praises must be sung.

Literally hanging out a shingle, Blake Brokaw's invested in a small kitchen in MonstroCity, surrounded by metal sculptures and the crane that's long been a centerpiece of the City Museum's exterior. In this little nook of the eye-popping space, dubbed "Number Nine," Brokaw's got a modest set-up, with an industrial refrigerator, a counter and a couple of barrel grills. Featuring a lineup of barbecue items and a couple vegetarian items - the aforementioned potato of legend and a simple, delicious portabello sandwich - the space neatly complements the Cabin Inn, just a few feet away.

Even though the weather's chilled, Brokaw's new endeavor is worth visiting. Just bring a light wrap and an appetite. And maybe a few expectations, since it is Brokaw on the grill. My Potato Hero.

(The little birdy say: look for more on Blake in an upcoming P-D Everyday feature. And, just maybe, some run in Playback STL, too.)

A Taste of Pre-Mrs. T

I just had some of the best potato soup I've ever had, in the basement of St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Church, on 1901 Ann Avenue (nearly at the intersection of Russell and Gravois). I've been sick for a few days, and it's the first thing that's tasted good all week.

The church is holding a "Russian Foodfest" today and tomorrow. The entrance is easy to miss, but you can smell the boiled cabbage for near on a block. The atmosphere feels a bit like the Polish Festival, or St. Mary's, though more grassroots. There's a little bake sale table set up, where you can buy kolachy or angel dolls; a drink table, where you can get a sip of Russian tea, or buy crocheted Christmas bears; and a small cafeteria-style setup in the back of the room, where they're serving up peirogis, potato-leek soup, Russian cabbage rolls and sausage. I highly recommend the Russian tea, which (as far as I can tell) is lemon Nestea crystals mixed with spices, but I can't identify which ones. It tastes like the woods in a fairy tale, is the only way I can explain it. Earthy and spicy and maybe even a little pine-needly. (I bought a glass jar of it from the bake sale lady for $2). The only typically Russian thing I didn't see for sale was Faberge eggs.

We were the only people in the room under 70 (the average age was more like 85), and I'm sure that most of them are life-long members of the congregation. The basement is well kept up, but hasn't been remodeled since the '60s at least. Better than the tea, better than the soup, was the feeling of being wrapped up in the shadow of an older St. Louis, a place where you couldn't find Mrs. T's products in your grocer's frozen food case, because they hadn't been invented yet.

The Grass is Greener

Not only is the new Lemon Grass greener, it's also more yellow. And, most importantly, the two plastic lobsters with large, glowing, red eyes aren't tucked away, but are, in fact, the primary design features of the barroom. Yes, barroom. There's a little bar at Lemon Grass, with a modest selection of beers and wines carefully spaced out on the glass shelving. More green, more yellow, more liquor, same menu, check.

But to return to the "most importantly" concept... it might be that the most important element of the new Lemon Grass isn't that the lobsters made the trip safely down Grand. It's that the space isn't contaiminated by the toxins from CBGB next door. On a recent weeknight visit to the Grass, dozens of 23-year-old men, smelling of cigarettes, PBR and youthful musk, were standing in their black sweatshirts and Chuck Taylors just a few away, playing pinball, discussing the new VHS or Beta album and, waiting, unsuccessfully, for an unacompanied woman of any age to walk in the South City landmark. (Keep the faith, fellows.) But the thick, strong city walls of Lemon Grass - painted those yellows and greens and festooned with lobsters - kept their volume to less than a minimum. They were not a presence.

Lemon Grass is now an oasis. No more opening the door and letting in one of the following: cold blasts of wind; leaves and chips bags; obscenities from passing, foul-mouthed children; and the creeky sounds of car alarms. No more gazing upon boxes of wine, stacked balefully in a corner. No more bumped elbows, as someone you vaguely know from the neighborhood comes in and plops down next to you, easily enough in your personal space to eavesdrop on conversations both petty and uplifting. Lemon Grass is now relatively vast (two rooms, same number as the old place, but what rooms!) and is much the richer for it.

The draconian policy of no soda refills remains in place. A lusty round of boos! But we'll forgive the bosses at Lemon Grass and will simply order tea instead. And we'll order it soon, as the new Lemon Grass is a place worth visiting early and often.

Explore Fall

Fall Road Trip season is upon us. Well, upon me anyway. When the leaves begin to turn, I love taking weekend excursions throughout the region, along with thousands of other nature-loving rubberneckers.

Last weekend I went on a little family road trip up the River Road in Illinois. We took the free Brussels ferry across the Illinois River and drove the very scenic route north. I was delighted with the pastoral views along the way to the little burg (pop. 125). As we drove through the country town I spotted the cutest gingerbread house with, much to my amazement and confusion, a confederate flag on its post. It seemed so out of place. It looked like the cozy home of a sweet grandmother, but what kind of grandmother would wave that flag? Then I saw some crotchety looking guy, probably in his fifties come out of the front door. But it still made my blood boil. I just don’t get that whole confederate flag thing. I don’t know what I would do if I had a neighbor put one of those things up. It is bad enough some hoosier sports one right on Jamieson, just north of Fyler, which I have to pass every day on my way to work. Anyway, I’m not going to write the whole town of Brussels off.

I will highly recommend Mel’s Riverdock Restaurant in Hardin, Illinois.This was my third visit to this very unassuming establishment. The décor is modest, consisting mainly of poster boards decorated with photos of soldiers from the area serving in the war. Tablecloths are of the plastic variety. The service is very friendly. On my first two visits, Mel came out with a plate of smoked meats, the house specialty, offering samples to those unfamiliar with the menu. If you enjoy smoked meats, this is the place. But the sides are equally good. I always get the fresh cucumber salad and baked beans, both of which are similar to my grandmother’s, though not as sweet. But the main reason I’m willing to take a little drive to Mel’s is the pie. Nowhere in area have I found pie as delicious. All are homemade. The peach pie I had in July was the best I’ve ever had and I come from a family of great pie bakers. Last week they offered rhubarb, gooseberry, bumbleberry (a blend of blueberry, raspberry and blackberry), chocolate, coconut, turtle and rockslide. In an adventurous mood, I tried the bread pudding with vanilla sauce and was not sorry. I suspect it was made from leftover homemade cinnamon rolls, also offered on the menu. It was a dense, moist, forest of all my favorite food textures and flavors—the most comfortable comfort food I’ve ever had. I could have snuggled into that generic chair and napped with that pudding.

Treat yourself this fall to a little ride to the country. See some leaves. Pick some pumpkins. Eat at a little mom and pop you’ve never tried before. Take some pictures. Explore.

Food Network Highlights The Royale

The Food Network's "Recipe for Success" takes aim at a new St. Louis nightspot next week, with a feature on the Smith family's recent venture "The Royale." Found just south of Tower Grove Park on Kingshighway, the refurbished space was filmed by Food Network crew members within the first 48-hours of the kitchen's opening, and a few weeks after the bar portion of the space had been secured.

According to a short press blip on the FN site: "A young boxing promoter decides to throw all the punches to open a retro diner in St. Louis. He sells his house and convinces his parents to throw their retirement savings into the ring. Will the restaurant go down or become a knock out success?"

The program airs on Tuesday, Sept. 13 at 8:30 p.m.; and Wednesday, Sept. 14 at 12:30 a.m. Would we be safe in guessing that a certain club at 3132 South Kingshighway might just be playing the show?