52nd City

Chez Leon

St. Louis is lucky to have Chef Eric Brenner. Moxy is one of my favorite restaurants; consistent, casual, but always special. The servers know our tastes in wines and make recommendations always right on target. The scallops are truly divine, with fennel undertones that have given me an entirely new appreciation and respect for the odd little root. The short ribs are memorable enough that I crave them after a month or so of doing without. This weekend I had the pleasure of dining for the first time at Brenner’s French restaurant, Chez Leon. I went with friends to celebrate the holiday and in a word-WOW! A three-course price fixe dinner is $35 with just a few items on the menu increasing the price by $2-5. While not exorbitant, I will save Chez Leon for special occasions; more so for the ambience than the prices. We were all knocked out by our experience.

Potato and leek soup arrived with a wonderful balance of flavors and richness. The Lyonnaise salad was a hit with those brave enough to try salad with a poached egg delicately nestled on top. And Brenner sure knows his way around a scallop. Those at Chez Leon were just heavenly—larger and richer than their sisters at Moxy, but still with perfectly blended light sauce. It is hard to say who won the entrée contest. A friend who only orders steak when we dine out claimed the Chez Leon filet made the steak from her usual haunt taste like it came from Denny’s. The free-range chicken with truffle butter was spectacular. Hangar steak with béarnaise was completely decadent, but thoroughly enjoyed. And while one would assume a pork chop with sauerkraut to be sort of common peasant grub, it was anything but, with kraut that had caramelized, without becoming soggy.

I continued my St. Louis Crème Brulèe tour, not surprised that this was one of the best. I’m sort of a puritan about this dessert, and am disappointed when it comes with any hint of citrus or is too full of vanilla beans. It was just right. A chocolate cake with gooey center elicited oohs, ahhs and eye rolling. It was not at all like those giant concoctions that one finds at chain restaurants. It was amazingly sophisticated with a scoop of homemade pistachio ice cream. The sorbet arrived with three generous scoops—two blood orange and one pineapple. With so many rich dishes consumed throughout the evening, one spoonful of sorbet was the ideal finish.

The house red wine, at $32 a bottle, I think was a Côtes du Rhône. (I admit I’m horrible at remembering wines.) It was tasty too. The service was pleasant and not overbearing. The only bad thing was the frigid waddle back to our car.

Even better than the food, was of course, spending the evening with best friends. Dinner out in lieu of gifts is the only way to go during the holidays.