August 09, 2005
Sub-Radar: Soldiers Memorial
Though I've been to two Strassenfests, I've never been seen the doors of the Soldiers Memorial open during that weekend. But they opened the doors this year, and what a strange treat it was to step inside. From what I gather from born-and-bred St. Louisians, the museum is a bit of a sleeper; but the interior is as intact a St. Louis time capsule as you're liable to find. There's a lot here for history and architecture lovers, both outside (the stylized ornamental pylons on the building's facade, terazzo mosaic inside the loggia) and inside (Moderne-style walls made with stone inlay, Deco display cabinets).
I will admit that it felt odd to be looking at knives, grenades and a melted beer bottle that survived Hiroshima knowing that outside the walls, kids were riding the Ferris Wheel and Father Time was doing the polka with a long line of sexy grandmas. I am far from being a military history buff, but I still found this little museum strangely compelling, especially the dioramas (including one that uses a wisp of angel hair glued to the mouth of a cannon to simulate smoke; when was the last time you saw angel hair?). There's also a case dedicated to art made in wartime, including metal vases created by prisoners of war from empty munitions shells. Also notable are several photos of early 20th-century St. Louis that you probably won't see elsewhere.
Of course, as I write this, the Memorial is on the brink of shedding its sleeperdom status: on August 27 (the day after the 52nd City Trivia Night!) Sauce Magazine is throwing its "Sauce in the City" party on the premises. It will be interesting to see how they work with the space, and whether the event will spark some interest in the building and the museum. Whether or not you go to the Sauce party, the spot is well worth a solo trip during a downtown lunch hour.
One thing that I like about the Soldiers Memorial is that it attracted special scorn from Frank Lloyd Wright, who harshly dismissed it by comparing it to the Moderne buildings then being built in Italy under Mussolini. Not many buildings in St. Louis managed to elicit any reaction from Wright, so this one must be special.
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